
The luxury sector experienced a period of euphoria between 2021 and 2024. Fatting by strong growth, the main brands were found with additional shows, especially for their commercial pre-letters, which had not previously adorned the standards. With this golden age, the number of shows begged to decrease. This spring, only Dior continued to think (very) large, with a show in Kyoto 15 for the autumn 2025 collection, followed by another in Rome on May 27 for his Cruise 2026 collection.
The shows of French fashion houses abroad generally have commercial purposes (to attract local clients) or communication objectives (to tell their history). Dior show in Kyoto is a synthesis of both. Japan, with its weak Yen that attracts Chinese tourists, has once again become a strategic market for the luxury industry. Moreoover, since he took care of the women’s lines in 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri has constantly reviewed places linked to the history of Dior.
In recent years, he has traveled to New York, where Christian Dior opened a boutique in 1948; Scotland, where they presented collections in 1951 and 1955; Mumbai, where designer Marc Bohan organized a great charity event in 1962. “Dior’s story is linked to cultural trips and exchanges. Organization shows around the world is a way to deepen this inheritance, but to visit the direct places again through my eyes on my Wednesday and my Wednesday. Chiuri.
Between the foundation of his brand in 1947 and his death a decade later, Christian Dior did not have time to visit Japan, but was deeply interested in it. In the postwar period, international recovery plans encouraged exchanges between Japan and other textile industries. The French Couturier collaborated with Tatsumura, a textile crafts founded in 1894 in Kyoto, and prepared outfits of his fabrics inspired by his “new appearance” his iconic silhouette with a waist with a waist and a complete skirt. He designed for a large Japanese department store “Diorpaletot” and “Diorcoat”, models that hybridized European costumes and kimonos. In 1957, Hey also made the wedding dress for Princess Michiko, but did not have time to finish it: her successor Yves Saint Laurent completed it.
Beyond the Japanese history of Dior, Kioto, the cradle of Japanese crafts, fascinates Chiuri, who is anxious to enrich his work with foreign experience. “I have always hit the leg for how much we can have in common [with cultures seemingly very distant from our own]. Tools such as loom or needle exist everywhere, but are used in very different ways. Crafts allows us to understand life tension between what we have in common and what distinguishes us, “he said.
Origami folding
This autumn show of 2025 (which I monde Followed on the screen in Paris) appeared at dusk, in the middle of the cherry blossoms of the To-Ji Buddhist temple, whose impressive 55-meter high wooden pagoda is a Unesco world heritage site. This emblematic location of the city evokes the floral world that is loved for Christian Dior and a recurring motive in Japanese textile ornamentation.
The collection seeks to reflect French haute couture and Japanese crafts, without necessarily merging them, playing with contrasts between forms and materials. A kimono in delicate Jacquard fabric with gold threads of tatsumura is compensated with a ruling belt with a metal clip closure. On the contrary, a closed double chest jacket with a belt, like a kimono, is cut from the Moiré silk that remembers the dior sewing of the 1950s.
In addition to the forms and materials, Chiuri, inspired by the two -dimensional construction method of the kimono for knit pieces is that it covers and supine, wraps the body without restriction. Origami’s folding rules led her to review the classic patterns lines, for example, in pants where a fabric panel folds around one leg. Asymmetry is also represented in the ornaments, even in a beige denim monkey, where only the left side is decorated with cherry flower branches, in an exhibition of empty feature or Japanese aesthetics. Discharge of logos but precise in work in dior codes, dyed of subtle Japanese references, this collection is successful. It shows that beyond the environment, a foreign environment can really nurture the imagination of a designer.
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In nine years, at a constant pace of at least six collections a year, Chiuri has established a signature wardrobe: broad and comfortable denim, asymmetric white shirts, variations around the “new appearance” that shale poses and motorcyclists re. It is in this consistency that Dior (LVMH Group) builds its phenomenal growth, tripling its income between 2016 and 2023. In a market in decline, this also justifies a change in the artistic direction, which must be announced before summer.
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